Three decades after styling the biggest stars and the most lavish films, Manish Malhotra’s career is stronger and more stellar than ever. He’s come a long way from styling films like Rangeela and Raja Hindustani. Today he’s a lot more than just a film costume expert; he’s the final word in fashion when it comes to India. His brand and his image as a fashion icon has transcended anything India has ever witnessed before. Whether it’s the West, the East or any other place in between, Bollywood and Indian fashion cannot express itself without the mention of Manish Malhotra. In a candid interview, the iconic designer and stylist recalls the highs and lows of a career in glitz and glamour…
Which would be the most challenging films you have designed for?
Definitely my initial years with Rangeela, Raja Hindustani, Dil To Pagal Hai… because they were about setting a new mark - discussing hair and make-up and putting across your point of view as a designer was difficult those days. Also, during Kabhi Alvida Na Kehna (KANK), we didn’t have assistants. I’d go and shop for Shah Rukh Khan and Karan (Johar) would help me in the fittings. KANK had a huge cast comprising Mr Amitabh Bachchan, Arjun Rampal, Preity Zinta, Rani Mukerji, Abhishek Bachchan et al. My memories of that film are about hours and hours of walking, sourcing clothes, alterations being done at night and so on. It was one of the most difficult films of my career. I’d also name Mughal-e-Azam, the play. I’d never designed for a play, that too 550 costumes in a month.
Which assignments do you consider as a cakewalk?
I enjoy doing difficult things. This is my 27th year and I continue to design for movies. Recently, I designed for Alia Bhatt in Badrinath Ki Dulhania, I’m designing for Jacqueline Fernandez in Judwaa 2. I also designed Sridevi’s costumes in Mom. Youngsters like Alia and Jhanvi Kapoor like wearing my clothes. My business is now a 100 crore label. It’s been tough; it’s been about single-minded dedication. There’s nothing else I love beyond my work.
It’s the first time that a designer did the grand finale at the India Couture Week as well as the Fashion Week in a span of weeks…
I did them in the span of two weeks. Both the shows, besides trending all over, had fabulous sets and music. I have many more such things ahead as a designer and as a label. The brand has completed 12 years.
I want to diversify my label. That’s why I began designing gowns two years ago. This year, I started with cocktail dresses, men suits and evening vests. We’re trying to change the perception of Indian couture. There’s a lot more to it than just the red and gold shaadi outfits. I’m excited about the expansion and the huge office that we’ve taken to corporatise the label. By the end of this year, I’m launching a pret label, which will be showcased in many stores. My Delhi store, which is a 9000 sq ft place, will expand to 15000 square feet by January 2018. I’m also looking to open stores in Hyderabad, London and Dubai next year.
You’re the favourite of the stars. What do you have to say about your rapport with them?
I love being part of the industry. It has given me a name, a lifestyle, friends. I’m grateful and overwhelmed by all the respect and love the stars have for me. It swells my heart when even younger stars wear my clothes and accord me respect.
Who in your opinion are the best styled stars?
The young girls have good knowledge about fashion. Like Kangana Ranaut has worked well on her style and so have Priyanka Chopra, Deepika Padukone and Alia Bhatt. What I like about Alia is that there’s a story to what she wears at red carpet and events. But she never overdoes it. There are actors, who are so much about fashion and so little about their movies. If you notice international actors, they’re naturally smart and well-dressed. They know their couture and high-street fashion well. They don’t overtly speak about what they are wearing or who they are wearing. For me a style of a person is about their love and passion for their work. So I’d say Alia is the most stylish.
What’s your one fashion advice for young stars?
Style is about being yourself, knowing who you are, it’s about carriage. Style is not about speaking what and who you are wearing. I’m attracted to people who know themselves and carry themselves with ease. That’s attractive and stylish.
Which are your favourite trends of the season?
I like a global influence, I like the drama. Indian clothes are becoming more and more glamorous because we have so much texture, luxury, colour in our culture. In fact, this year was the first year that I dressed up the Miss India pageant in the last crowning segment. I came up with the idea of dressing them up in Indian and it looked phenomenal. I enjoy the glamour of shimmer, tassels, fringes, feathers… and people are enjoying it too.
What are the five treasured items in your wardrobe?
I have this black bandhgala, which fits me well. I call it the ‘magic bandhgala’ because even if I put on weight it fits me perfectly. I also have a favourite black sherwani. I like my blue, black and navy blue shirts. I don’t like to over dress. Even if I wear a brand, I like to be subtle about it. I want my simple personality to speak rather than the brand.
Who are your fashion inspirations?
I’m inspired by the West fashion industry. It’s more than a 100-year old. What Coco Chanel did with her brand and its revival, the way Gucci has revived its brand as did Burberry a few years ago… I get inspired by these stories about designers making it into a large business.
When it comes to Bollywood fashion, which is the one thing you love?
I love retro! Nargisji’s costumes, the art décor and set design of Mughal-E-Azam and Pakeezah.
I am a huge fan of Zeenat Aman, Rekha, Meena Kumari, Mumtaz, how they took elements and made it their own. Like Mumtaz made orange famous, Yash Chopra’s films made white famous. I miss all that in today’s era. I’m fascinated by Nargisji’s beauty in Andaz (1949). Her style is amazing.
Which do you consider the worst decade in Bollywood fashion?
The ’80s. I came in the ’90s and toned it down and got those beautiful colours of the ’60s back.
What’s the one thing that keeps you going?
I’m a private person. My mantra is to stay focussed on myself. I don’t look at other people’s work. I thank God and the Universe for having done so much work - movies, weddings, collections and fashion shows all over the world. I feel blessed to have more work than I can handle.
SHOW COMMENTS
ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7p7XLpp2aqpVjsLC5jqKlrZ2iq7amw9JomKWhkWKvqa3TrWSiq12ptaZ5zKiqrWWjqcattdKhZKyZqah6p63SoaCopl2ivKjBy2akmqaZqLVuucCln6isopZ6c3%2BVa29noKSiuQ%3D%3D